Barbarian Days

A Surfing Life
Title rated 4 out of 5 stars, based on 165 ratings
**Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** "Reading this guy on the subject of waves and water is like reading Hemingway on bullfighting; William Burroughs on controlled substances; Updike on adultery. . . . a coming-of-age story, seen through the gloss resin coat of a surfboard."- Sports Illustrated Included…

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